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Morgan’s In The Desert - Quite A Find!

Posted on September 24, 2011 By Joseph

Before our recent visit to La Quinta, California for our anniversary, the last time that Julie and I were at the La Quinta Resort and Spa was for an American Public Television conference in November 2010.

Since we were staying nearby in a La Quinta-Vacations.com condo we really didn’t have to opportunity to explore the property as much as we normally would.  We did have a quick and pleasant lunch in the outdoor Top of the Plaza restaurant in between events, but what with all the signing of DK’s Where To Go When books, meeting programmers and rubbing shoulders with PBS luminaries like Rick Steves and Roger Elbert, there wasn’t much time to look around.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Having the time to stop and smell the roses in the resort’s garden was one reason we wanted to celebrate our anniversary at Morgan’s in the desert, the resort’s fine dinning establishment.  We were also acting on the good advice of Travelscope eMagazine editor, Barbara Beckley, a respected travel writer and long time aficionado of the California desert communities.  She loves it so much she has written a number of books (click here to read all about it in the Spring 2011 issue of the Travelscope eMagazine) and articles, as well purchasing her own “mid-century” bungalow in the desert somewhere.  I’m not sure where it is since she keeps it a secret so friends won’t drop in on here and spoil her desert solitude.  Anyway, she has covered the resort for the Los Angeles Times in the past praising the resort and, in particular, Morgan’s to no end.  I’m smart enough to know you should listen to local experts.

Last time we visited the La Quinta Resort property seemed so up-to-date that I thought it was a recent addition to the La Quinta accommodation scene.  Yet, lo and behold a plaque in the corridor on the way to the restaurant announced that not only had the hotel been built by San Francisco businessman Walter H. Morgan in the 1926, but there had been a restaurant in Morgan’s location the entire time.

Of course, having experienced many renovations neither the resort nor the restaurant space look as it did in the 1920’s, and yet the dining spaces’ most recent manifestation has been designed to more authentically capture the original desert oasis spirit of the property.  It now has a western ranch-style ambience.

In order to build the property Morgan originally purchased 1,400 acres from the native Cahuilla Indians, the resort comes authentically to its western heritage.  It’s casual, yet luxurious atmosphere must have been what originally attracted Hollywood stars like Clark Gable and Carole Lombard to Greta Garbo and Bette David to the oasis.  It’s no wonder that Frank Capra wrote It’s a Wonderful Life in rooms here.  Any Southern California desert rat will know that most of the desert communities were at one time or another escape hatches for the rich and famous in the 30s and 40s.  It continues to be used as such with celebrities like Harrison Ford gracing its rooms and PGA golfers like Pete Dye and Greg Norman practicing their skills on one of its five golf courses.

Meanwhile back at Morgan’s in the desert, Julie and I were comfortably ensconced next to a roaring fire (that gave off more light than heat) in preparation for what promised to be a stellar night.  I was already aware that Jimmy Schmidt, executive chef of Morgan’s specialized in using local product from the Coachella Valley and was “a pioneer in America’s culinary movement towards sustainable cooking and farm-to-table dining.”  His array of awards from Wine Spectator, Gourmet Magazine and a James Beard Award certainly boded well, but as they say, “the proof of the restaurant is in the eating.”

Our first dilemma was which of the choices from the extensive and intriguing menu we should order. From a list of appetizers that included many of my favorites, I picked two of them when I chose a combo of nine Pacific Oysters (six is never enough).  I wasn’t worried about spoiling my appetite since I consider a dozen or so oysters a light, luscious amuse-bouche.  Although I did pair them with the Roasted Baby Beet Salad Frisee and Chevre (goat cheese) Salad with a Black Walnut and Sherry Vinaigrette – which was pushing the envelope, so to speak.  Julie appreciates shrimp and the warm Grilled Baja Shrimp with Roasted Sweet Peppers, Cipollini & Black Garlic Rago won her over. 

Entrees at the restaurant range from hand cut pasta dishes, Diver Scallops and Alaskan Halibut to Colorado Lamb, Short Ribs and tender slabs of beef.  And, surprisingly, Morgan’s also offers a vegetarian dish or two.  Although there is an excellent wine list which mostly features California offerings that would nicely accompanied any meal by the glass or the bottle, we celebrated with our own bottle of 2007 Opus One that had been given to us by Julie’s son, Travis and his new wife, Mandy, in honor of their recent marriage.  Our decision to bring our own red eliminated the fish choices, but since I’d heard Chef Schmidt was noted for his straight-ahead cooking methods – such as open grilling, slow roasting and braising – I knew we had come to the right place to enjoy the proper protein accompaniment to Robert Mondavi and Baroness Philippine de Rothschild’s very particular Bordeaux blend. 

In any case, there is something about the California desert that I have always associated with the Wild West and therefore ranching and cattle.  I’m not sure if any ranching actually took place in the past, it gets a bit hot for that, but as I mentioned before Morgan’s in the desert has certainly attempted to capture the western spirit. 

So with our wine and the tumbling tumbleweeds in mind, Julie ordered the Tenderloin Filet and from the three toppings offered Crispy Parmesan, Maytag Blue Cheese and Nueske Smoked Bacon, chose the cheese.  Julie may have spent 30 years in Texas, but she is Swiss at heart.  I also kept it meatish, but did a variation on the theme by choosing the Pan Roasted Maple Leaf Breast of Duck and Foie Gras with roasted Bing Cherries and Cippolini Ragout.  Since we were splurging, in addition to what veggies already accompanied our meals we chose Sweet Garlic Fries, Grilled Asparagus and Garlicky Broccolini from their list of sides. 

Dessert was a must – it was our wedding anniversary, after all.  Unfortunately, there wasn’t anything with rhubarb in it or on it – a favorite ingredient of ours.  Oh, well, the Bittersweet Sea Salted Chocolate Tart and the Orange Blossom Creme Brulee had to suffice.

As you can tell, it was a feast for the occasion, with nothing missing.  Except, space for the Artisan Cheese course, which I understand is a highlight of a meal at the Morgan’s in the desert.  When we return, I’m putting it on the top of my must-indulge list. 

For reservations at Morgan’s in the desert call 760-564-700 or go to http://www.Morgansinthedesert.com.  Bon Appetit, y’ all!

 

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